Texting about Textiles

India's textile industry, prior to the British Raj, was a global marvel, celebrated for its exquisite craftsmanship and diverse range of fabrics. The subcontinent was a hub of innovation, producing textiles that were not only functional but also works of art, deeply intertwined with cultural and religious practices.

 

Here are some of the most famous textiles that flourished in India:

 

1. Muslin: Hailed as "woven air" or "liquid sunshine," Daka muslin was incredibly fine, almost transparent, and sought after by royalty and elites worldwide. Woven from a delicate, hand-spun cotton yarn, it was so light that a whole sari could be passed through a finger ring.

 

2. Chintz: Originating in Golconda (modern-day Hyderabad), chintz was a glazed cotton fabric characterized by its vibrant, hand-painted floral patterns. It became highly fashionable in Europe in the 17th and 18th centuries, leading to a massive demand that Indian artisans met with intricate designs and natural dyes.

 

3. Calico: Derived from Calicut (Kozhikode) in Kerala, calico was a plain-woven cotton fabric, generally unbleached and undyed. It was coarser than muslin but versatile and affordable, making it a staple for various uses, from clothing to sails. Its global trade made "calico" a generic term for cotton cloth.

 

4. Silk: India's silk industry was ancient and diverse, with different regions specializing in unique varieties.

 

Benarasi Silk: From Varanasi, known for its opulent brocades woven with gold and silver threads, often featuring intricate Mughal-inspired motifs.

 

Kanchipuram Silk: From Tamil Nadu, famous for its heavy silk saris with contrasting borders and traditional temple designs, known for their durability and rich feel.

 

Mysore Silk: Known for its pure silk and delicate zari work, often simpler in design but elegant.

 

Patola Silk: From Gujarat, a double ikat woven silk where both the warp and weft threads are tie-dyed before weaving, creating precise and complex patterns that are identical on both sides of the fabric.

 

5. Pashmina/Cashmere: While often associated with Kashmir, the fine wool from the pashmina goat was woven into exquisite shawls and garments. These were incredibly soft, warm, and often intricately embroidered, becoming a symbol of luxury across the world.

 

6. Brocade: This richly decorative shuttle-woven fabric, often made in silk, featured raised patterns that gave it an embroidered appearance. Indian brocades, especially from Varanasi and Ahmedabad, were known for their heavy use of gold and silver zari, creating dazzling designs.

 

7. Ikat: While Patola is a type of ikat, other regions like Odisha and Andhra Pradesh also produced stunning ikat textiles. This technique involves resist-dyeing threads before weaving, resulting in blurred or feathered patterns. Each region had its distinctive motifs and color palettes.

 

8. Block Prints: Various regions, such as Rajasthan (Bagru, Sanganer) and Gujarat (Ajrakh), were renowned for their intricate block printing techniques. Wooden blocks were hand-carved with designs, then used to stamp natural dyes onto cotton or silk, creating repetitive and often symbolic patterns.

 

The decline of this vibrant industry under the British Raj was a complex process involving policies designed to promote British manufactured goods and suppress Indian production. This included heavy tariffs on Indian textiles entering Britain, while British textiles entered India duty-free, and ultimately, the de-industrialization of India in favor of supplying raw materials to British mills.

 

Efforts are now being made to bring back our lost fabric history and heritage. The legacy of these textiles, however, continues to inspire and showcase the unparalleled skill and artistry of Indian weavers and dyers.

 

Reading References:

 

1.  British Raj and Weavers: https://www.savehandloom.org/how-british-rule-broke-indias-textile-industry-and-left-our-weavers-to-die-in-poverty/#:~:text=But%20this%20textile%20empire%20didn,but%20by%20calculated%20colonial%20strategy.

 

2.  Imperialism and Deindustrialisation: https://www.oerproject.com/en/oer-materials/oer-media/html-articles/1200/unit6/imperialism-and-deindustrialization-in-india 

 

3.  Muslin: https://loomandfiber.com/blog/what-is-muslin-fabric/

 

4.  The History and the Craft: https://www.malako-india.com/blogs/bedding/the-history-and-craftsmanship-behind-indian-textiles#:~:text=The%20Golden%20Age%20of%20Indian%20Textiles&text=The%20famous%20%22woven%20air%22%20muslin,often%20used%20for%20royal%20attire.

 

5.  Chintz: https://alamwar.com/blogs/stories/the-story-of-chintz 

 

6.  History of Silk: https://www.theindiansilkexportpromotioncouncil.com/history-of-indian-silk.php 

 

7.  Banarasi Saree: https://varanasi.nic.in/district-produce/banarasi-saree/ 

 

8.  Kanchipuram: https://kancheepuram.nic.in/about-district/gi-tag-product-kancheevaram-silks-and-sarees/#:~:text=The%20joint%20is%20woven%20so,silk%20saris%20from%20the%20others.

 

9.  Mysore Sarees: https://tulsisilks.co.in/blogs/6-types-of-mysore-silk-sarees-online-blouse-designs-styling-tips

 

10.  Orissa Ikkat: https://www.incredibleindia.gov.in/en/odisha/orissa-ikat#:~:text=While%20exploring%20this%20vibrant%20region,a%20timeless%20souvenirs%20back%20home!

 

11.  Sanganeri Hand Block : https://www.incredibleindia.gov.in/en/rajasthan/sanganeri-hand-block-printing#:~:text=Characterized%20by%20floral%20and%20nature,beauty%2C%20cultural%20significance%20and%20enduring

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